Sunday, July 14, 2019

Revamped 1940's China Cabinet - Heirloom piece from my granny's kitchen

I inherited a special piece of furniture from my grandmother decades ago. It was a simple china cabinet that once graced her kitchen in small-town New Jersey in the late 1940's. At one point it was a focal point of her kitchen — housing all of her plates, saucers, bowls and coffee mugs. I always loved its simplicity and small size. It was a very blue-collar/utility piece and it held pieces of my own kitchen for many years.

While my wife and kids were away on vacation, I decided it was time to give it new life, while respecting its age and era. I wanted to refinish it, sure up its bones, and to add a rustic touch with some distressing.

Here is what 2 solid weeks of sweat equity can result in.

The original china cabinet after removing the top glass doors, the drawer and the bottom doors. In general, it was solid, but needed a new back, a new drawer runner, new hinges, new knobs/pulls.

The longest part of the project included painting on multiple coats of paint stripper. This took a tremendous amount of patience and was a messy process, but after each coat of paint removed, it revealed more and more of the original piece. The fumes of the stripper weren't as bad as I'd thought, but I still kept the garage door open for the 95 degree "fresh" air to keep me from passing out.

First coat of stripper doing its job. They key is patience here. Paint the stripper on and leave it to dissolve as much as it can, before scraping it off with a putty knife.

A photo of the front frame after the second coat of stripper. Still peeling off plenty of paint here. 


Finally seeing a little bit of wood under all those coats of paint.


During the stripping process, I started to notice that the piece had once been robin's egg blue. After asking my grandmother about its history she did remember it being a light blue at one point.

Some of the blue paint starting to come off during scraping.


Next it was on to the doors. Thankfully the glass on both doors was intact after all these years. It was a bit tricky scraping the paint from the glass trim detail. I just took my time, so as not to damage the molding or crack the glass.

One of the top glass doors getting stripped.


A few layers of paint to go. See that blue color of the original?


Next step was to strip the layers of paint off of the shelves. Both top and bottom of each shelf was stripped. This was also the point where I went and bought some beadboard to make a new back to replace the old one.

The shelves took a long time to strip given the stubborn paint they held on to. Also noticed what I think were details of a flowered vase painted or stuck to the bottom doors.


After most of the paint layers were stripped and sanded off, it was time to patch some old dents, dings and gouges.

With much of the paint removed, it was time to detail sand and patch.


On to the drawers and doors. They were in pretty rough shape and needed some patching and sanding love.

The two bottom drawers. The faces were made out of fiber board, which is really tricky to sand, so patching was a must. I also decided to fill in the old handle/pull holes so that I could reposition and install new pulls.


All of the original glue had broken off of the drawer joints and the drawer bottom was too far gone to repair, so I took some scrap fiber board and made a new drawer bottom as well as removed all of the old glue and reset, squared, glued and clamped the drawer back together.


Once it was cleaned off and sanded, I test fitted the new beadboard back.

New beadboard back fitting nicely.


With the new back secured, I moved on to test fitting all of the doors and drawer and laid out where I wanted the new hardware to go. Still in rough shape, but very close to being ready for primer.

Test fitting the new hardware. I was looking for practicality and symmetry.



You can see in the photo from where the patches are that the cabinet once had small knobs (most likely made of wood) and later someone (probably granddad) added handle pulls.


After the geneal assembly, it was still lacking something in stature. The top, I felt, needed something to give it a presence. I decided that I would make an oversized top out of oak and crown molding. I hadn't worked with crown molding before and wanted to learn something new. It was just the touch it needed.

New crown molding and solid oak top. Ready for final sanding and primer.


After all the messy parts of the project were out of the way (approximately 10 days worth of work) I brought the pieces inside to paint. I started with the interior (back and shelves), which I decided were going to be painted with General Finishes Milk Paint (Antique White).



A few coats of the interior parts later, I was ready to start on the outside. Now, my ultimate goal was to give this piece an antique/distressed look. I started with a base coat of flat black so that after sanding the final coats of paint, it would reveal and offer a nice repainted rustic look.

Exterior panels, frames and top painted with two coats of flat black.


On to the most exciting part... the final color.

Flat black color covered over with General Finishes Milk Paint (Persian Blue). I put on two coats so that I had a bit more control over the distressing process.


Now on to the scary and rewarding part of the process. Taking off bits and pieces of all of the hard work I had just accomplished over the previous few days.

After all drying was complete, I used a combination of steel wool and sand paper of different grits to scuff some edges to create the look of wear and tear.


This was my first time distressing a piece of furniture on purpose. I learned that less is more. If I did it again, I may have done a bit less, but it still turned out great,

Almost done. Almost to the finish line.



A closer view of some of the distressing. See how that black comes through and creates a contrast with the blue?


And the very final-final step was to apply a paste wax to all of the surfaces to give it a slight sheen and to protect the piece from moisture and finger prints.

Finished within an hour of the family coming home from a two week vacation.


Overall, I'm really happy with how this project turned out. I learned a lot throughout the process and also realized how long even a "simple" project can take. Two full weeks. Might have been easier and quicker to build a new one, but this heirloom piece is special to my family and I and will no doubt be a conversation piece for generations to come.


Sunday, June 9, 2019

New material to work with

A friend of mine asked me if I wanted some cherry logs from his property. He had some big limbs cut down over his driveway after a large cherry tree began to show signs of decay. I brought them home and blocked them up with the chainsaw and sealed them with Anchor Seal before throwing them into the back of the garage to store while drying.

One day, I'll bring them back out and turn them into bowls. But until then, they slowly dry and age.

Six black cherry blanks ready to seal and go into storage to dry.

Monday, February 20, 2017

More wooden crafts for the new year

1) SOLD - Easter aromatic cedar hollow form.

2) $60. American cherry bowl. 9-5/8" by 2-7"8".

3) SOLD. American cherry bowl. 11-3/8" by 3-5/8".


4) SOLD. Wine bottle stoppers.

5) $30. Small black walnut hollow form. 3-3/8" by 2-1/2".

Stack of bowls made from American dogwood.

6) FAMILY KEEPER - Maple hollow form made from Jonker family cottage tree.

7) SOLD - Sun-scorched American cherry bowl.

8) $20. Small bowl made from American dogwood. 4-7/8" by 1-3/8".

9) SOLD. Small bowl made from American dogwood. 4-1/2" by 1".

10) $20. Small bowl made from American dogwood. 5-1/4" by 1-7/8".

11) SOLD. Small bowl made from American dogwood. 6-1/8" by 2-1/8".


12) $20. Small bowl made from American dogwood. 5-1/8" by 1-3/8".

13) SOLD. Small American cherry hollow form. 3-3/4" by 2-1/2".

14) $20. Small bowl made from American dogwood. 4-3/8" by 1-3/8".

15-18) $25 each. 2 SOLD Stack of four black walnut shallow bowls. 7-7/8" by 1-5/8".

19) SOLD. Ambrosia maple bowl. 8-1/2" by 2".
20) $60. Spalted maple bowl. 10-7/8" by 2-1/2".

21) $50. Duck call made from maple and bloodwood. Brass band.

22) FAMILY KEEPER - Duck call made from maple from Jonker family cottage. Brass band.

23) SOLD. Duck call made from rosewood and padauk. Aluminum band.

24) FAMILY KEEPER - Duck call made from maple from Jonker family cottage. Brass band.

25) SOLD. Duck call made form purple heart and silver maple. Aluminum band.

26) SOLD. Duck call made from black walnut and Gabon ebony. Aluminum band.

27) $50. Duck call made form black walnut, padauk and maple. Brass band.

28) $50. Duck call made from black walnut, Gabon ebony, and a maple pinstripe. Aluminum band.

29) $50. Duck call made from black walnut, spalted maple, and walnut/maple pinstripes. Brass band.

30) SOLD. Canada goose call made from olivewood and bubinga. Brass band.

31) $55. Canada goose call made from black walnut, Gabon ebony. Brass band.

32) SOLD. Duck call made from osage orange and black walnut. Brass band.

33) $50. Duck call made from black walnut, silver maple, and padauk. Aluminum band.

34) $50. Duck call made from black walnut and bubinga. Aluminum band.

35) NOT FOR SALE - Duck call made from dyed maple. This call was finished a few years back and stays on my call lanyard. 


Friday, July 29, 2016

Address Sign

Just a quick post to feature my latest project — a new address sign for our home. Our previous address sign came with the house and was a little tacky looking (arts and crafts painted tile).

I purchased the copper numbers from Amazon and got to work on deciding how I wanted to lay them out. I cut some simple baltic birch 1/2 plywood to the basic shape to create a backer board and primed/painted it black. I then bought some walnut boards and cut/planed them down to size and spaced them out about 1/4" apart and screwed them in from the back of the plywood. Next I added some walnut strips as a frame around the edges.

The trickiest part was measuring out where the drill holes would be to mount the copper numbers would go. Each number had two spikes on the back with plastic anchors. These drill holes had to be precise, so lots of light pencil lines and precise measuring had to take place. Once I was sure they would be centered and spaced, I drilled the holes on the drill press. Then I ran the entire block through the drum sander a few times to make sure I was flat and smooth all around.

Because there was an existing tile house number plate that was fixed to the brick — and I decided that removing it would cause too much damage to the home — I fixed an aluminum plate to the back of the new project that hooks into original plate. A few test fits and some tweaking here and there, it was time to finish.

I finished the wood with 3 coats of Danish Oil, and 2 coats of Spar urethane. Let all of the coats dry, and popped it into place. Hoping it will weather all storms for many years to come.


Friday, January 15, 2016

Quack

Left to right: Cherry, Spalted maple from family cottage in MI, dyed maple.
Here are a few recent duck call bodies I made to pair with some nice double-reed Echo call inserts. Used some nice dry wood from the scrap bin. Bored them out to 5/8" and added brass bands for stability. A few coats of Danish Oil, a few coats of Tru-oil, and a good smoothing with #0000 steel wool. They look great and sound amazing with the Echo call inserts. Really nice top end hail calls, which have always been tricky with some of the single reed calls I've made.

Honestly, I can't wait to turn some more. Next time I'll experiment with pinning the bands on and see how they turn out.

Monday, January 4, 2016

Experiment in hollow forms

Something that I have wanted to try for a year or so. Hollow forms are wooden objects turned on the lathe where a bulk of the insides are removed with specialty tools (plus some careful technique and great luck). They are tricky and dangerous and take a steady hand and patience. However the outcome can be a really interesting conversation piece of art.

I experimented with turning some finial tops to add some visual interest and to cap off the small openings. I think they "turned" out well and have found some happy homes with family members.
Large 11" diameter hollow form made from American Cherry. Finial turned from Peruvian walnut (dyed black).

Medium hollow form turned from a piece of spalted maple. The photo shows (unfinished) Peruvian walnut finial and lid. The spalted maple was a bit punky to work with because of how soft it is. Next time I think I will run it through a stabilization process before finish turning.

The working (pre-finish) body of the spalted maple hollow form. Ready for sanding and Danish Oil. Notice the bit of chip out of the end grain around the inside of the opening. Drove me a bit nuts, but sometimes minor defeats lead to learning processes.
A photo of the hollow form on the lathe after turning the general shape of the bottom profile.